Americas

[Visited: November 2024 and several times before]

Many years after my first visit, I am on the way to Lake Louise again with a few new-found friends. It is September: summer is over, but winter has not started yet. When we come closer, we see some patches of snow at higher altitudes, and in the evening, we gladly light a fire to stay warm. The next day is filled with many hikes along the Icefield Parkway that runs between Lake Louise and Jasper. We decide to do a longer hike around Bow Lake, going up to a viewpoint in the mountains that is already much closer to snow. Driving further north, we do shorter hikes to Mistaya Canyon, and Lake Peyto viewpoint. This is among the most spectacular sights in the parks, with views up north and over the turquoise lake below. The furthest north we get is just beyond North Saskatchewan River, where we walk some switchbacks down to Panther Falls and Bridal Veil Falls. From there, it is time to drive back down the Icefields Parkway, and on to Calgary. We are all excited for having seen this beautiful corner of Canada.
Just over a month later, I am on my way to Calgary again, but this time around, driving in from the north. It is plain winter now, and when we drive along Athabasca River, we see snow-capped mountains in the west, and patches of ice in the river. We also see herds of big horn sheep on the roadside, and are getting all excited for the day ahead. The sun is shining through clouds, and I am looking forward to driving towards the point where I turned around before. But first, we are reminded of the fragility of nature, when we see charred trees everywhere. Wildfires have destroyed a considerable part of the forest as well as the town, very sad to see. We start driving south on the Icefields Parkway, and our first stop is Athabasca Falls. We walk along rocky cliffs that have been carved into smooth rocks for millions of years by the incessant flow of water. Some rocks are covered in ice, and we wonder if these falls ever freeze over when winter sets in for real. A little further south, we stop at Sunwapta Falls, which looks especially majestic with the snow-covered mountains rising high behind them.
From here, we continue driving always more south, over Sunwapta Pass, from which we have great views over the valley ahead. We pass the Panther Falls where I was before, and from now on, I recognize the spots I saw before. Or, so I think. Winter has changed everything. The trail to Mistaya Canyon is blocked, but we walk down anyway. There, the water still rushes through the carved rocks, but those are now covered in ice. The trail to the viewpoint of Peyto Lake is covered in snow, and the view is the same, but also completely different. Turquoise water now in a winter wonder landscape of snow and ice. We make more stops on the way south, and when we reach Lake Louise, we walk a trail next to the lakeshore. It is very icy, and I didn't bring my crampons, but I still make it up to Lake Agnes, completely frozen and covered in snow. One thing is very clear: it is also very worth it visiting these parks in winter. The next morning, we walk up the icy trail of Johnston Creek, and find several waterfalls pushing through boulders covered in ice. Then, it is time to leave the natural wonders of Jasper and Banff National Parks behind us, and head to Calgary. But in the back of my mind, I already have plans to return for some of the many other trails in this vast landscape of beauty.

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Jasper Banff National Parks (Canada)

Jasper Banff National Parks > Canada > Americas

[Visited: November 2024 and several times before]

Around the World in 80 Clicks