Europe

[Visited: July 2024]

When we leave Termoli in the early morning, our boat is packed. It is clear that we are heading to a popular spot, and after a little over an hour, we reach the southern tip of San Domino island. This is the southernmost, and biggest of the small archipelago of the Tremiti islands, which are also called the Diomedee islands. According to legend, king Diomedes threw three boulders into the sea after coming back from the historic battle of Troy. After getting off the ferry, we walk up the steep street, under old pine trees with their lovely scent, and leave our bags in our room. It is still morning, but already getting warm. We decide to change, head back, and enjoy a few hours of leisure at the biggest sandy beach of the Tremiti islands, Cala delle arene. The small beach is busy. Still, we enjoy basking in the sun, and taking regular dips in the sea. A kind of luxury I hardly ever allow myself. And indeed, after a few hours I get restless. We head back to our hotel and decide to go for an afternoon stroll.
We walk a road and then a trail to the Grotta delle Rondinelle. Sharp rocks and clear waters, and rock formations in the sea. I feel tempted to just dive in, but it isn't obvious how I could get out again. We walk the trail towards Punta Secca, where boats come to take fuel or go fishing. There is no one around. We see cliffs towards the east, and the top of the lighthouse. We head back to town, and then I go off for another walk. The temperatures are more pleasant than before. Walking the trail south, I am under a cover of more pine trees while I see the Adriatic Sea under me. Again, there is no other person around. I walk down to the Grotta del Sale, Scoglietto, and the Grotta delle Viole. Spectacular coastline with waves crashing against rock formations below me and birds flying around. A little further south, I find the abandoned lighthouse at Punta del Diavolo. The old building is destroyed, and there is a new, automated lighthouse guiding ships in the night. Later, I would hear a story about two Swiss men who put explosives in the lighthouse in 1987 - one of them was killed, the other disappeared. They were paid by Ghadafi who wanted the Tremiti islands back. At least the caretaker was not there. The little building is a ruin now. I walk back along the highest point of San Domino island, and enjoy some great views over both San Nicola and Capraia islands.
The next morning, we start by walking down to the Matano beach which is a tiny sandy beach, protected by a narrow bay. There is quite some trash in the sea, which the caretaker of the beach removes. We have another relaxing morning, but the wind picks up and the waves get wilder. We take other beds at a higher spot as the lower ones almost get washed away. We go for an afternoon stroll through the small town of San Domino, and enjoy another tasty meal. The next morning, we walk down to the harbour where we find a big ship arriving, and many people pouring onto the island. Fortunately, we take a small boat with a knowledgeable captain who takes us around the islands, telling us about the history. We enjoy the sights of rock formations, among which Elephant Rock, crystal clear water in brilliant hues of green and turquoise, take dips in the sea at several points, have a short climb on the Cretaccio islet. We eventually get dropped off at San Nicola island which we have seen from a distance for two days now. we climb up the cobble stones to the entrance of the castle that dominates the island. It was first built here in the 7th century. Later, Benedictine monks turned it into a monastery in the Middle Ages. We see the church in the Santa Maria a Mare with brilliant mosaics covering the floor, and an impressive statue of Mary and child. We continue walking north, and arrive at the mausoleum for the Libyans who perished here in 1911 after the were deported from their homeland. Unfortunately, the mausoleum is in dire need of restoration, even though it is not old. An ugly story of the Tremiti, and it would be used as a prison for gays under Mussolini, after Emperor August sent his granddaughter Julia here. She wouldn't leave the Tremiti before her death, twenty years later. Unfortunately, I didn't find why he did so. We see the cemetery of the Tremiti, also on the north side of the island. Walking back to the monastery, we notice how it is dramatically built on top of the steep rocks that rise almost straight up from the Adriatic. We have a lovely dinner at a sunset point on the west side of San Nicola. The next morning, it is time to catch a helicopter back to the mainland and say farewell to the Tremiti. I will be back, but in a more quiet season.

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Tremiti Islands (Italy)

Tremiti Islands > Italy > Europe

[Visited: July 2024]

Around the World in 80 Clicks