Asia

[Visited: February 2018]

Walking the almost empty streets of Muscat, admiring the forts on the steep rocks that once defended the city, I am surprised to find a row of buses near the entrance of Bait al Zubair. Fortunately, I manage to explore much of the main museum before the hordes take over. Bait al Bagh is the main building, once a family home in the early 20th century for the Zubair family, but since turned into a rich museum with items from the private collection of the same family. Here, I find exquisite examples of traditional Omani khanjar, or daggers; attire for both women and men, precious jewellery, arms, everyday articles, and musical instruments. There even is a display which gives the casual visitor an idea of what an Omani wedding looks like. The exhibition surely manages to make me feel at home in Oman. I pay a quick visit to the first floor which is all about stamps and coins, before I come down again. Now, groups swarm the galleries, leaders with numbers asking their flock to follow: more buses with cruiseship passengers have arrived; a clear sign to leave.
Outside the museum, I find a miniature version of an Omani village, a falaj (water distribution system), a traditional barasti, or Omani hut, and a boat. When I enter the building behind the museum, Bait al Bahdhah, I am surprised to find that I am alone. The building contains works of art by over 50 Omani artists, and as such present the visitor a view of modern-day Oman. There is a wide variety of works, from abstract to realistic, some monochrome, some very colourful. There even is a small theater in the building, which truly offers the opportunity to enjoy present-day Omani culture. It is time to visit Bait al Dalaleel, which represents typical Omani architecture. Just behind the bar, I find a wind tower, which provided the inhabitants of fresh air before airconditioning was invented. Then, I explore the traditional quarters of an Omani house: the majlis, or lounge for guests, with pillows on the floor to accommodate the guests, women's room, bedroom, and a date store. Small niches in the walls allow for traditional Omani items to be showcased.
Back on the ground floor, I have a look at the pictures on display in the arts space, a pleasant spot to sit, have a drink, chat, and take in the surrounding area. There is one more building to visit: Bait al Oud, at three stories the tallest building of them all. Before it was demolished in the 1940s, this used to be the residence of the Zubair family. The building which I enter is a replica of that big family residence. On the way up, I pass delicately carved wooden doors, beautifully decorating the walls. There is much more on the various floors. Ancient European maps of the Arabian peninsula, Arabia Felix; models of dhows and other boats and ship used by the Omanis, old black and white pictures of Muscat, all kinds of furniture, and even old cameras. Again, I am surprised to have the entire building to myself. Even outside, I realize that the buses have left, taking their passengers with them. I now take a more relaxed stroll through the gardens that are part of the comprehensive museum, before I start walking back along the coast.

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Bait al Zubair (Oman)

Bait al Zubair > Oman > Asia

[Visited: February 2018]

Around the World in 80 Clicks