Europe

[Visited: August 2021]

Oh, I came prepared. I had read descriptions of the climb, and knew it was not going to be an easy hike up to Mount Rysy, the highest peak of Poland. Moreover, I was going to climb in the high season. I therefore make sure to arrive at the parking lot where the trailhead is before 5am. The valley is still wrapped in darkness and fog, but there is some light in the sky. I have money ready, but the guardian asks me for my online ticket, gives me a leaflet, and sends me away. I try to book the online parking ticket, but all I get are texts in Polish. After ten minutes, one of the people arriving tells me that you have to book your parking ticket five days ahead. I have wasted my time. I drive back, and find an empty parking lot just across the border with Slovakia. Pay the parking fee, take my stuff, and head towards the mountains. This adds a couple kilometres to an already long walking day. I lost more than half an hour, so I am in a hurry. My plan is to summit Mount Rysy, and hike all the way back on the same day. From the parking lot, it is around 15 kilometres one way. The small disillusion is that the beginning of the trail is an asphalt road. It leads through the forest, passes a waterfall, and some openings between the trees allow for views of the jagged peaks on which the sun is already shining. I have walked full speed, and reach the first lake faster than expected. Morskie Oko: a destination for the many who will never summit. I am in luck. The sky is a speckless blue, and as there is no wind whatsoever, the lake is completely undisturbed. The perfect mirror. Morskie Oko means "Eye of the Sea": it was believed to be connected to the sea.
By now, I have left the last asphalt behind me at the mountain hut at the northern shore of the lake. From now on, I will be hiking on stones rather than asphalt. The trail takes me near the shoreline to the other side, where a steep path takes me to Czarny Staw pod Rysami (Black Lake under the top of Rysy), a lake under two hundred metres higher than Morskie Oko. I see patches of dirty snow on the other side of the lake reflected in the water, and I need to raise my head to see the mountains that are still a thousand metres higher than this second lake. The trail continues on the left hand side of the lake. On the way, I pass a large patch of old snow. A cold wind blows from it. A little later, the trail turns left and heads straight up the steep mountain slope. The easy part is over now. I climb on large rocks, gaining altitude quickly. After a while, I reach a big boulder, climb on top, and am rewarded with a spectacular view of the lake below which seems very dark now that I see it from above. I now see why it is called Black Lake. The going gets tough from here, and the trail not always easy to find. Some other people get on a wrong track and need to cut through the steep slope to join the right path. I reach Bula pod Rysami, a natural platform which offers superb views over the valley below, the lakes, and the surrounding mountains which now are much lower than before. The gradient becomes a little easier after this, until the steepest section starts. Chains provide stability and a grip on the rocks that sometimes are slippery because of moisture. I regularly need to use my hands and scramble always higher. The steep incline means that I quickly gain altitude. When rays of sunlight hit my eyes, I know that I am getting close to the top of Mount Rysy.
I reach a ridge which offers views into a much greener valley than the one I have just climbed out of. This is Slovakia, and from here, I will follow the border right to the top of Mount Rysy. I am at 2499 metres above sea level now, and started at just under 1000. Ah, the bliss of reaching the top of a mountain! The deep sense of satisfaction, and the unobstructed views all around! I see other peaks, small lakes, valleys, and further in the distance, flat lands with farms and roads. I only had one short break and after a little over three and a half hours after I left the car park, I need to replenish lost energies. I find a nice spot in the sun, eat and drink, and just enjoy the feeling of accomplishment. I wonder why it is not cold, and realize that even here, there is no wind. More people reach the summit, and after taking my time to soak in the views, decide the crowd is getting too big. Furthermore, clouds are rolling in: one of the reasons I wanted to get here early. I dread going down the steep slope, but I have no alternative but to follow the same trail down. I need to wait regularly for groups of people going up, and take another longer break at the viewpoint of Bula pod Rysami. The lakes are not dark anymore, but lit by the sunlight. A little lower, I slip and fall, but I can continue without further issues. The sun is burning on my back now, making me sweat more than when I was climbing. I stop for a while to cool off in the cold wind that is still blowing from the snow field. When I finally reach the lakeshore, I know that the going will be much easier. Now, I have to deal with something else: crowds. The trail is overflowing with people, families, the elderly, for whom the lake is the final destination. There are regular queues, and when I reach the mountain hut, I come to a standstill in a thick crowd. People are trying to come down and people are trying to go up, and everyone can only try to take small steps at a time. The mountain hut is bursting with people and there is a joyful atmosphere. I have now reached the asphalt road, and know the last bit will be easy: the road slopes down gently. Horse-drawn carts overtake me regularly: it is also possible to cover the distance the easy way. But I am determined to use my own legs. When I finally reach the trail head, not only is the car park full, but the road, which is clearly marked as a no-parking zone, has a more than a kilometre line on both sides. I buy some drinks and sit down to quench my thirst. My feet burn, my legs hurt, but I am thoroughly satisfied of having scaled Mount Rysy, the highest mountain of Poland.

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Mount Rysy (Poland)

Mount Rysy > Poland > Europe

[Visited: August 2021]

Around the World in 80 Clicks