Europe

[Visited: September 2024]

Out of all the many potential places to see in Iceland, I had to make a choice because I had limited time. I decided for a change of scenery after having been to Greenland, and head towards the north of the island: a part I haven't been to. It is a long drive, and by the time I arrive in Dalvík it is already early evening. I have a surprisingly good dinner, and the next morning make sure to arrive at the quay well ahead of departure time. I board the small and cosy Sæfari which will take me north to the island of Grímsey (named after the Viking Vestfjarða-Grímur Sigurðsson who settled the island in 1024 CE). I stand on deck most of the time, as the view of the ever changing light on the mountain slopes defining the fjords, and the waterfalls tumbling down the rocky landscapes, is just too beautiful. Then, at the horizon, I see a strip of land emerge above the waterline. Grímsey island.
As soon as we arrive, I walk off the ship. My plan is to hike around the entire island and be back in time to catch the boat back; it stays here less than four hours. It doesn't take long before I see basalt rocks rising from the sea, waves trying to push them down. I walk further north, as this is my primary goal. Close to the tiny airport, I see a fixed marker of the Arctic Circle, with markers pointing to world cities and giving the distance. Grímsey island is the only inhabited place of Iceland touched by this polar circle. However, the Arctic Circle is not a fixed parallel, and the actual line is just a bit further north. I walk an easy trail, at times close to the rugged coast of black rocks, green slopes, and a calm sea below. A little higher up, I find the Orbus et Globis monument, a concrete sphere of 3 metres which marks the actual Arctic Circle, and is supposedly moved every year or so to indicate the real parallel. It has been estimated that around 2047, the Arctic Circle will no longer run through Grímsey island. I hike still further north, until I reach the northernmost tip of the island. Nearby, I see a stone on the ground with white letters saying "2046".
After a little time in the Arctic, I hike to the high cliffs on the east, and start following the coastline on the edge of the cliffs. This part of Grímsey is a popular breeding ground for many birds, but unfortunately I am too late: most have already left. I do see a few northern fulmars in holes in the cliffs, but there are supposedly millions of birds at the height of season. Puffins also like to breed here, but they already left weeks before. The only one I see is a decapitated one, with intestines out - despite the gruesome sight, I can still recognize the colourful beak. The trail leads me through grassy landscapes, past a herd of horses who curiously come to greet and even touch me, until I reach the southern part of the island. The southern tip is low and doesn't have the spectacular steep cliffs of the north, but it does have the only lighthouse of Grímsey. Across the sea, I see the mountains of mainland Iceland. I sit down in the grass to observe the fulmars flying past, and then walk to the lighthouse and jump from one basalt rock to the next until there is nowhere else to go. On my way back, I pass the church of the only village here, Sandvik. I had read that locals had painted replicas of Leonardo da Vinci paintings, but when I enter, I am surprised to find it under construction, with tools lying around on the floor. Alas. From here, it is a short walk back to the small port and then another three-hour ride back to the mainland. It has been dry all day, but we arrive in the rain. All there is to do, is drive back to the airport through the night.

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Grímsey Island (Iceland)

Grímsey Island > Iceland > Europe

[Visited: September 2024]

Around the World in 80 Clicks