Europe

[Visited: July 2020]

After the short visit to the forgotten ruins of Stibera, I was looking forward to what I thought would be the highlight is the day: the ruins of Heraclear Lyncestis near Bitola. It is easy to find them, but when I approach the entrance, I notice the gate is closed. When I come close, a supervisor shows up, and explains that the ruins are closed because of Covid-19. Ah, yes, of course. He sees my disappointment, and tells me that I can enter for free, but that I have to leave my camera behind. After stowing it in the car, I start exploring the ruins of this old city, founded by Philip II of Macedonia in the 4th century BCE. There are remains of a small and large basilica, therma, a forum, fountain, and a theatre which is off limits because of excavations. There are ruined walls, with stelae and columns.
When I get to the far end of the ruins I find the best example of mosaics, in the large basilica. The entire floor is covered, depicting deer, trees, a lion chasing a deer and a leopard killing one, all framed with wave-like mosaics. It is not allowed to walk on the mosaics, but it is easy to walk around the low remaining wall and see the finely executed mosaics from all sides. On my way out, I see several marble slabs with Greek inscriptions. Heraclea Lyncestis was eventually conquered by the Romans, and when it was abandoned, the city of Bitola flourished. I am on my way to explore this city which originally was named Monastery (after the Slavic word obitola for monastery), and also in the Ottoman times was called Monastir. It served as the capital of the first Bulgarian empire in the early 11th century.
The main street of Bitola is Sirok Sokak, which fortunately is a pedestrian street. I walk it from south to north, enjoying the views of 19th century buildings, fountains, a statue of former Yugoslav president Tito, until I come to a square where I find the famous clock tower of Bitola. I walk past a mosque and a church to reach the 16th century open bazaar, a quarter of cobble-stone streets and old buildings perfect to wonder around in. Many shops are closed, the market does have some stalls, but also seems quiet. I have lunch on the square again, to soak up the pleasant atmosphere of the city. On my way back, I make another stop at the start of Sirok Sokak, have an ice cream while again watching life go on. It may be an old city, but Bitola is very much alive and kicking.

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Bitola (North Macedonia)

Bitola > North Macedonia > Europe

[Visited: July 2020]

Around the World in 80 Clicks