Asia

[Visited: June 2023]

The sky is grey when I leave my hotel in the morning, but it looks like it might be clearing later. I leave in a good mood, take a subway where I can still use my Octopus card even though I didn't use it for four (pandemic) years, and get off at Sheung Wan station. I get some local breakfast in a small shop, and walk up several streets until I reach Ladder Street, which leads straight to my first destination of the day: Man Mo Temple. I have been here a long time ago - so long, that I don't really remember anything else than the large incense coils hanging from the ceiling. When I arrive, I certainly do not recognize the exterior. The temple is not small, but it is dwarfed by skyscrapers trying to reach the grey clouds just behind it. After taking a few pictures from the outside, I read the information board of the temple.
Man Mo Temple is actually dedicated to two gods: Man Cheong (or Tai) and Mo (or Kwan) Tai - the gods of Literature and Martial Arts, respectively; hence the combined name Man Mo. There are more Man Mo temples in Hong Kong, but this is the most famous one. Especially now that I am a published author, I am interested in Man Tai. But first I walk past a row of what looks like deities, and see another, bigger statue for a deity in a colourful dress. I walk past a richly decorated door, behind which I see rows of lanterns and a golden deer. Above it, I see the large incense coils that were still on my mind when I was on my way here. Behind this small hall, I come to a place where candles and incense are burning in barrels with sand. I see people buying incense and lighting it here, then putting it to burn in the brass containers. I walk to the place where the incense is sold.
Not only do I buy a set of incense, I also buy ribbons and write names on them, one of a beloved person I hope to be healed, the other for the promotion of my book, which I consider appropriate in this temple partly dedicated to Man Tai, the God of Literature. I tie the ribbons to a rack, and follow the advice of the man at the counter by putting the incense in different places. Then, I walk towards the altar itself. The incense seller has explained that Man Tai is the right hand statue, and this is confirmed by a brass hand holding a pen. Fruits have been placed in front of the gods as offerings. I stand a while at the feet of the Man Tai, letting the peace of the temple sink in, and think of my book and the efforts I took to write and translate it. Then, I watch people light incense at the candles, I watch them pray, and I walk back and forth in Man Mo Temple to have a second (and third) look at all the different sections. When I want to leave, rain is pouring down on the city, and since I have no protection whatsoever, I sit down at the entrance and wait until the worst of the rain has passed. I turn around once more, taking in the sight of the temple and its setting, and walk down Ladder Street.

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Man Mo Temple (Hong Kong)

Man Mo Temple > Hong Kong > Asia

[Visited: June 2023]

Around the World in 80 Clicks