Asia

[Visited: July 2024]

After arriving from Europe, I take a one-hour nap and am on my way south. I am overwhelmed by the crowds at Osaka station, take a subway and then a local train to Hashimoto station, where I change to another local train to Gokurabashi station. A short cablecar ride takes me up the mountain where Koyasan is located, some 800 metres above sea level. This is a historic and sacred place in Japan. In the early 9th century, Kukai, also known as Kobo Daishi, founded a monastery here of the Shingon sect. He chose the location because of its lotus shape and because the valley is surrounded by eight mountains, an auspicious number. In his view, Koyasan (literally: Koya mountain) should become a place of prayer and the well-being of people. Over the centuries, more monasteries were added; there are more than a hundred now.
I take a bus into town, and decide to directly go to a restaurant where I have a tasty vegetarian dinner. I walk to my hostel which is in the east of town, and get some good suggestions for the next day from the owner. I meet some other travellers and have an unexpected lively evening. Still, I wake up early, take one of the umbrellas, and go outside where heavy rain is pouring down. It is already light, and within minutes I enter Okunoin cemetery, the largest cemetery of Japan. I walk past many lanterns with lights, and I immediately feel serenity and an almost cosy atmosphere. I explore the atmospheric cemetery, where I find hundreds, thousands of stone tombs, many overgrown with mosses. Delicate light filters through the canopy of the centuries old cedar trees above my head. What a beautiful, peaceful and serene place to be buried. When I reach the Gobyobashi bridge, I read that I am not allowed to take photos or pictures anymore. I am entering the holiest part of Koyasan. A little further north lies the mausoleum of Kukai, the founder of Koyasan. His followers believe he did not pass away, but is immersed in a long meditation. One day, he will get out of his meditation, which explains why the biggest cemetery is next door. People want to be buried close to the legendary monk.
Three monks walk under the heavy rain across the bridge, and I follow them to the Lantern Hall. Inside, I follow the ceremony that is held here early every morning. The head monk sits in the middle, and the two others are on the side. They chant, they move diligently, and they instil respect in the few people attending. When the ceremony is over, I walk around the building and see the mausoleum from a distance. It cannot be visited. After waiting for better weather, I decide to walk into town again when the heavy rain is getting a little less. I attend a Goma fire ritual in the Shojoshin temple. A solitary monk sits in the middle of the temple, and we can only see his back. He is constantly doing something, moving objects around, making sounds, and finally he lights a fire. We throw small wooden straws into the fire on which we have written our names, ages and wishes. The monk blesses us, and the ceremony is over. It is time to start exploring Koyasan further. I walk though town several times, explore the historic sights of Kongobuji complex with its wooden buildings and rock garden. I then walk to the Danjo Garan complex, which has pagodas (one of which is impressive), old wooden buildings, temples, and an impressive gate. Close by, a small pond with brightly painted orange bridges. After a meditation session and another walk through the enormous cemetery of Okunoin, I walk to the far west of Koyasan where I see the Daimon Gate. Another impressive building with sculptures of deities. Then, I hurry back as the sun (which has finally emerged in the last hours of the day) is going down, and it is time to travel back to Osaka. My head is full of impressions, and I am determined to come back with hopefully better weather. It seems that this is also a good area for hiking.

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Koyasan (Japan)

Koyasan > Japan > Asia

[Visited: July 2024]

Around the World in 80 Clicks