Asia

[Visited: November 2022]

In the morning, we pay an early visit to the Great Mosque of Mecca. Entering is not possible without the proper attire. This visit is much more impressive than the first one, if only because of the large amount of pilgrims performing Umrah. We have breakfast in our hotel overlooking the Kaaba, and decide to drive straight to Jebel al Nour. Navigation is not always easy in the holy city, but we manage to find a gas station before we reach the foot of the holy mountain. When we turn a corner, the street suddenly inclines steeply. When we turn another corner, we decide to park. Ahead of us, above us: Jebel al Nour, or the Mountain of the Light. The street is even steeper here, and we see many people struggling to walk up. What's more, the few cars that make it here, are equally struggling to advance, and there is very little spots to park.
When we reach the end of the road, we finally see how the trail continues all the way to the top. We are very short on time, and my travel companion decides to give it a miss. I secure my backpack, and start the climb. Stairs have been hewed out of the rocks (some 1750 of them), and the trail meanders up Jebel al Nour. Pilgrims are working their way up, pausing frequently to get some air to continue on the arduous climb. I hold my rhythm, start sweating, and only allow myself the shortest of stops for taking a quick picture. I have 45 minutes to climb and come down again, and I estimate that that should be doable. Meanwhile, I see an abundance of trash lying around, and I am a little shocked to see that on this sacred mountain. Within twenty minutes, I reach the top of Jebel al Nour at 640 metres.
The trail continues over the top: the cave of Hira is on the western side of Jebel al Nour. Now that I am here, I want to see the cave, too. I walk past pilgrims sitting on rocks to rest after their climb - God knows how long it has taken them. I see flags, and in the distance, the enormous clock tower that dominates not just the Great Mosque, but also the city of Mecca. Below me, pilgrims are swarming near the entrance to the cave of Hira. This is where the Prophet Mohammed is believed to have meditated, and received the first revelation from the angel Jibrail, also known as Gabriel. I would have loved to enter, but I simply have no time. Instead, I watch the pilgrims whose dream is coming true: to step inside one of the holiest places. Here, high above the bustle of the city below, I feel serenity, pure belief in a simple environment that breathes history - unlike much of the commercialism and building spree of the area surrounding the Great Mosque of Mecca. It is time to head down the slippery stones of the stairs. I see a man helping a woman (his wife) up the hill. When I reach the road again, eight men are pushing a 4WD up the steep road. I turn around once more to see Jebel al Nour, and then, we drive straight to the airport of Jeddah to catch our flight home.

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Jebel al Nour (Saudi Arabia)

Jebel al Nour > Saudi Arabia > Asia

[Visited: November 2022]

Around the World in 80 Clicks