Asia

[Visited: April 2024]

We have arrived in the heartland of Bhutan in the early evening. The next morning, we are up early, and drive straight to Jakar. From a distance, we can already see our destination: a dzong has been built on a ridge overlooking the valley in the early 16th century. Jakar Dzong, according to come the largest dzong of the country. Our guide parks the car on a modest parking under the trees, and we walk up the path to the entrance. On the way, we see a small building with a giant prayer wheel inside, which is being kept in motion by a mill in the water of a stream over which it is built. A light purple blossom is making the trees look like cotton candy. When we reach the richly decorated entrance door, we listen to our guide as he explains the history of this dzong that once defended the east of Bhutan.
A roosting white bird once flew into this valley, and pointed the attention of the locals to this very spot. Lamas and elders saw the bird, and considered it an auspicious sign which they took serious. The first fortress was built here in the early 16th century, and later a newer version was built on the same spot. It is also called the Fortress of the White Bird. The Bhutanese word for white bird is bjakhab, from which Jakar is thought to originate. It is time to step inside, and of course our guide makes sure to be dressed properly, with his white scarf around his left shoulder. Once inside, it is like stepping into a separate world. The courtyard is quite narrow, giving it a feeling of intimacy. On the side, we see painted wooden stairs leading to the first floor, where the quarters of the monks are located.
A small group of monks stand in a corner, warming themselves in the rays of sunlight piercing into the dzong. Their eyes are glued to the screens of their smartphones - it is in moments like these that I realize how much the world is getting smaller, and how it is always harder to find a place where modern technology has not invaded yet. Our guide walks us through the courtyard, to a next building, and another courtyard which again is narrow. This is the administrative part of the dzong. It has long ceased to be only a fortified monastery and now has an official function in everyday life in the region. Today is a quiet day, unlike other dzongs, we don't see any civilians around. When we are back at the quarters of the monks, they have all disappeared and we seem to have the dzong to ourselves. Who knows, they might be busy on their phones inside? We are out to head to one of the most sacred places of Bhutan.

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[Visited: April 2024]

Around the World in 80 Clicks