Asia

[Visited: July 2024 and several times before]

Several times before, I had been to Macau: it was back in the 1990s. A lot of things have changed: Portugal handed over the former colony to China in 1999, and in 2005, the entire historic city has been declared a Unesco World Heritage site. Time has come to revisit, and delve into my memory to see what I can still remember. One other thing that has changed is that the city can be reached by bus, as the 55 kilometre Hong Kongâ€“Zhuhaiâ€“Macau Bridge (the longest open-sea fixed link in the world. It turns out to be a cumbersome way to reach Macau, as it requires immigration procedures at Hong Kong airport and before arrival in Macau. From a luxury hotel in the northern tip of the Macau peninsula, I start my exploration. The glitzy buildings remind me that Macau is not just a former Portuguese colony, but also the Las Vegas of the East. But I am not here to gamble, I am here to (re)discover the historic side of this city. I walk along a big street, see a post of Formula 3 races, cross the street, and walk up stairs in a tower. I have reached the Guia Hill Municipal Park, and walk up a street.
Walking around the base of Guia Fortress, I appreciate the sturdy walls, weathered with time. I walk through a tunnel with a small exhibition of black and white photos of earlier days of the city. From here, I walk through the gate, and walk up the stairs to the top of the fortress. Naturally, it is built on the highest point of the city. The fortress played an important role in the Battle of Macau in 1622 when the Dutch were repelled. Standing on the top of the fortress, I can indeed see all around the city, even though some of the skyscrapers are higher than this hill. Two-thirds of Macau are reclaimed land: the view must have been very different centuries (or even decades) ago. I see the small, whitewashed Chapel of Our Lady of Guia, and next to it, the lighthouse which was built in 1885 and is the oldest still operating lighthouse on the coast of China. In the chapel, I see the frescoes which were only revealed in 1996. They indeed are beautiful, and I marvel at the soft colours of the age-old works of art.
From the Guia fortress, I walk down, passing colonial buildings, on my way to the Monte fortress. I walk up the hill, around the walls, and then up the stairs to the colonial building that I had already seen from Guia fortress. Unlike the higher fortress, there are crowds here. Cannons are placed on the ramparts, and there are several enormous, old trees on the top of the fortress. The Monte fortress also offers great views over the city. Close by, I see the ruins of St Paul. Finally, a sight I vividly remember, and the top historic spot of the city: the facade of the Mater Dei church. When I stand at its feet, I marvel at the richly decorated colonial building. It is a unique relic of the colonial times, a mix of classical Portuguese architecture and and Chinese influences which are carved in the facade as well. The once mighty church, constructed in the early 17th century, was destroyed by fire in 1835. The layout of the church can still be seen, and it is even possible to get a tour through the old church through a VR experience which was definitely not possible when I visited in the 1990s. From the church, I walk further south, passing the Largo do Senado which feels like a very Portuguese place with its typical white and black mosaics on the ground. From here, I pass several colonial churches and buildings, all the way to the A-Ma temple. This temple for the sea goddess A-Ma probably gave the name of Macau to the city. I arrive just before closure, and am catapulted in a very different world now, with enormous smokingcircular incense coils. It doesn't get much more Chinese than this. I turn north again, see several other churches and colonial buidings, and then darkness falls over the former Portuguese colony, accompanied by rain. It is time for dinner, and then I take the ferry back to Hong Kong which turns out to be much easier than the bus.

Around the World in 80 Clicks

inspiring you to travel

Historic Macau (Macau)

Historic Macau > Macau > Asia

[Visited: July 2024 and several times before]

Around the World in 80 Clicks