Americas

[Visited: January 1999, January 2024]

While we are driving down the curvy road from Tiradentes in the north, we try to get a first glimpse of the ocean. The sun is about to set, and the mountain slopes are covered by a thick forest. Yet, at one point, we do see the coastline, far ahead of us, through openings in the trees. I have to keep a close look at the road ahead though. One curve after another, on a narrow road, with an occasional car driving up the mountain. I am trying to fish the memories of my earlier visit back to life, which is not easy as that was 25 years before. When we finally reach the streets of Paraty, I realize that it has become a busy coastal town. I see shopping malls, lots of people and cars, and I am pretty sure things were very different on my first visit. After dropping our stuff in a hotel, we explore the historic centre of Paraty. One more thing that has changed: since 2019 Paraty is a World Heritage Site. While walking the cobble-stone streets, lined by white colonial buildings with colourful blue, red or green windows and doors, I realize that this is very much like the Paraty of my first visit. The one big difference is that the streets are very crowded. We have an exquisite dinner in one of the many fancy restaurants of the town.
The next morning, wanting to see a bit of the nature close to Paraty, we drive to Trinidade, a little further to the south of Paraty. We arrive in what looks like a big tourist trap. Moreover, we get stuck in a very slowly moving traffic jam. We drive past one hotel, restaurant and beach shop after another, until we reach the very end of the village. Instead of following the other cars, we turn right and easily find a parking spot adjacent to a small hotel and camping. From here, it is a short walk to the beginning of a trail which takes us to Cachadaço beach. It is a short hike through the forest, over rocks and roots, and with several viewpoints over the sandy beach and bay of Praia do Meio. When we arrive at the main beach of Cachadaço, we are happy we made this small effort. The beach is not deserted, but also not overrun by people. We begin enjoying the January sun on our skin on the beach, play in the surf, enjoying the cooling effect of the water. We then move to the shade of a tree, and just relax. Great to not have anything to do, after a week of exploring Minas Gerais. We dip in the ocean several times more, and then I go for a run along the beach. At the end of the afternoon, we walk back to Trinidade, walk around a little bit, and drive back to Paraty.
The next morning, I am up with the sun. I want to see a different Paraty, and I am rewarded instantly. Not only is the weather nice, and not too warm yet, but I also have the streets exclusively to myself. The sun is not yet shining on the cobble-stone streets, and much of the houses are still in the shade. I therefore decide to walk to the waterfront on the east side of Paraty. I find the Nossa Senhora das Dores church bathing in the sun. From here, I walk past the houses towards the south. To my surprise, I find several streets flooded, giving them the look of canals in Venice with houses rising directly from the water. I walk one of the pavements that is only partially submerged, and try to ignore the stench rising from the filthy water. Once a little further away from the waterfront, I enjoy the views of the pretty colonial houses and churches on the empty streets. Fortunately, motorized traffic is not allowed in the historic part of this coastal town. Paraty once was the end station of the Golden Trail. It received gold transport from the interior of Minas Gerais, and from here, that same gold was sent to Rio and onwards to Portugal. In reverse, slaves and goods were sent from here into the interior. The opening of direct roads to Rio eclipsed Paraty as an important port. It revived when it was discovered by tourism. After enjoying the silence of the colonial streets, it is time to go back to my hotel once the first people start arriving. I have refreshened my memory of Paraty, and am happy to have been back. It is ever as pretty as I remembered. Time has come to drive up all the curves again, on the way to our next destination.

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Paraty (Brazil)

Paraty > Brazil > Americas

[Visited: January 1999, January 2024]

Around the World in 80 Clicks