Africa

[Visited: July 2021]

The boat ride gives us good views of the coastline of Praslin, and when we reach the northwestern shore, the captain directs our boat towards a small island. We are on our way to Cousin, one of the small islands lying around Praslin. It used to be a coconut plantation, but was bought in 1968 by a bird organisation. The coconut trees were removed, the native vegetation regenerated, turning the island into a haven for many types of birds. Some of them, like the Seychelles warbler, were on the brink of extinction. They bounced back and now live in healthier numbers on Cousin and a few other islands. We are picked up by a dingy and land on the dazzling white beach that rises steeply from the turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean. The air is filled with birds, and we hear birds all around us. After a short wait in the shelter, we head off with a guide.
It is clear from the very start that the trees of Cousin are chockfull with birds. We see lesser noddies, brown noddies, and the Seychelles magpie-robin in nests in the trees, while we see white-tailed tropicbirds in nests on the ground, often at the foot of a tree. The chirping and warbling and squeaking is deafening and coming from everywhere. Our guide points out hermit crabs, several kinds of lizards, and then we come across our first Aldabra giant tortoise. We do not need a guide to spot it: the big hump is clearly visible and doesn't move. It patiently poses for a picture with some of our group. We then see more of the friendly beasts on our way up. Meanwhile, I am massacred by mosquitoes. The anti-mosquito cream at the shelter was finished, and we did not take our own as no one warned us beforehand of the nasty insects. They are a true plague, and at any one moment my arms are completely covered in dozens of them, all stinging me at the same time. I break all my records of mosquito-killing but it doesn't prevent my arms to be completely covered in a multitude of bites.
At the highest point of Cousin, we reach a viewpoint. From here, we can see Cousine island, which unfortunately is off-limits. We also see the white-tailed tropicbird in full flight, and can now see how appropriate their name is. Their tail is remarkably long and makes them look very elegant in the air. We backtrack on the same trail, and then walk on the beach for the last stretch. Here, we see a multitude of crabs crawling over the white sands. White terns in the trees, contrasting nicely with the blue sky. As soon as we take a path in the vegetation, we see more nests of white-tailed tropicbirds with their furry chicks in nests on the ground. Here, we can observe lesser noddies with their chicks from close up. It is hard to see how this island could be a coconut plantation: it is a successful haven for wildlife now. A short talk reveals that there is a small group of scientists and wardens living on the island. We wish them luck in their good work before we head back towards Praslin.

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Cousin island (Seychelles)

Cousin island > Seychelles > Africa

[Visited: July 2021]

Around the World in 80 Clicks