Africa

[Visited: April 2018]

After arriving in darkness the evening before, we are curious to see Man and its surroundings. It is a sunny day when we walk towards the west, leaving the town behind us. Towards the north, we see the needle of the Dent de Man sticking out of the landscape, and other, less spectacular mountains, all covered in a thick green carpet. After crossing the ring road that runs around Man, we are walking on an unpaved road. We pass trees brimming with mangoes, and women who sell the irresistible fruit on wooden tables at the roadside. The views of the landscape only become better. Then, one kid tells us that the cascades are closed, and another Ivorian tells us the same. We decide to continue walking anyway - the scenery is worth it. When we reach the official entrance of the waterfall, it is clear that, indeed, it is closed. Moreover, there is no way around it: a wall separates us from the pathway that leads to the waterfall.
Talking to some Ivorians who have come here in 4WDs, we hear that as an alternative, we might want to hike up to Mont Tonkpi, which has a lookout point from which we can see the surrounding region. It sounds tempting, but we realize we won't make it in time before dusk to hike up and down the mountain. We continue on the track, and after a few curves, see a few motorbikes parked on the roadside. We walk down a trail next to them, and see other people walking down a steep trail next to a stream. It turns out this actually is the top of the cascades we were looking for: we have found the back entrance. At the base of the waterfall, we look up and see the wide rocky area from which the water comes tumbling down in stages. The Ivorians around us are delighted to see us here, and we have to pose for what seems like an endless series of selfies with them.
We have entered the developed part of the cascades, with concrete walkways leading over the stream to small shops and benches - it is now clear that this has been closed for a long time. A little further downstream, we find a tiny pont aux lianes, a man-made bridge of lianes spanning the stream. There is an atmosphere of joy here, especially because no one had to pay the normal entrance fee, yet we can all enjoy the falls and the surrounding area. It feels like we are all in a conspiracy together. We walk back to the cascades, where a group of guys have taken off their shirts and are climbing the slippery rocks up the waterfall, taking showers, and showing off for pictures. We clamber up the steep hill, stop a little higher up for views down the waterfall, and stay some more time on a boulder in the stream to play cards and enjoy the sound of running water, before we head back to Man.

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Cascades de Man (Ivory Coast)

Cascades de Man > Ivory Coast > Africa

[Visited: April 2018]

Around the World in 80 Clicks